FAQ's & Tips

FAQ’S

1. How do I get to your nursery?
2. How deep do I need to dig the hole for my new tree?
3. When should I fertilize my lawn and what should I use?
4. When should I fertilize trees and shrubs and what should I use?
5. When can I prune my shrubs?
6. My aspens have a sticky, clear residue on the leaves, what’s wrong?
7. The leaves on my tree/shrub are yellowing, what’s wrong?
8. Are you open all year?
9. I have an area that I need suggestions for—can you help?
10. What should I use for soil amendments when planting a tree/shrub?
IMPORTANT SEASONAL GARDENING TIP: WINTER WATERING

 

1. How do I get to your nursery?
   Just refer to the Map/Directions page on this website.
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2. How deep do I need to dig the hole for my new tree?
   Obviously the size of the hole depends on the size of the tree. It is very important not to dig too deep. A hole that is too deep will decrease the amount of oxygen the roots are getting and will kill the tree. You want a hole that is just as deep (or even a little less) than the depth of the container or root ball. The width should be twice as wide as the width of the container or root ball to give roots room to spread. For example, on a 2” caliper tree, the hole should be 18” deep and 4’ wide.
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3. When should I fertilize my lawn and what should I use?
   You should fertilize your lawn the first part of April. Use a crabgrass control if crabgrass is a problem. If you just want a green up, use Jirdon’s Greenmaster, which is 25% nitrogen. You will also want to fertilize sometime in the summer. You can again use Greenmaster or you can use a slow-release, Jirdon’s Heat and Drought Stress formula, or a weed n’ feed depending on the needs of your lawn. If your lawn needs it, you can apply fertilizer twice during summer months, but keep the applications at least 4 weeks apart. Finally, you will want to apply a winterizer fertilizer when the grass is going dormant late in the fall. This fertilizer should be applied right before your last watering in the fall and it will give your grass its first round of nutrients when the weather warms up in the spring.
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4. When should I fertilize trees and shrubs and what should I use?
   We recommend using Jirdon’s Tree and Shrub fertilizer. It is formulated specifically for trees and shrubs in the Rocky Mountain region. You should apply a light application around May 15, June 15, and July 31. If you are fertilizing less often shoot for May 15 and July 15. You don’t want to fertilize after the first part of August. You don’t want to push too much new growth late in the season. Bill’s Rose food can be used for roses and should be applied once a month until September.
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5. When can I prune my shrubs?
   It really depends on the type of shrub you are needing to prune and if and when it flowers. Pruning flowering shrubs at the wrong time can affect the blooming. For shrubs that flower on new growth: they should be pruned early in the spring before blooming. Pruning in the spring will encourage new growth and more flowers. Examples: Blue Mist Spirea, Anthony Waterer Spirea, Potentilla. Shrubs which bloom on old growth from the previous year should be pruned AFTER flowering. Taking off last year’s wood would result in little or no blooming. Examples: Forsythia, Snowmound Spirea, Cistena Plum, Lilacs.
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6. My aspens have a sticky, clear residue on the leaves, what’s wrong?
   The sticky honeydew residue is caused by aphids. You can check for the little insects on the under side of the leaves. One easy way to treat this problem is to spray the tree down with water. Aspens are often sensitive to chemicals (turn black) and water is a safe treatment. Products such as cygon, orthene, or isotox can also be used.
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7. The leaves on my tree/shrub are yellowing, what’s wrong?
   Yellowing can be a sign of several different problems. But, one of the most common is iron deficiency. Iron chlorosis is identifiable by the yellowing of the leaf while the veins remain green. To treat this problem the plant needs to be fed iron. Chelated iron is the most readily available source. We have both liquid and granular formulas available. If a lack of iron isn’t the problem, don’t hesitate talking to one of our staff members to determine the cause of and the solution to the problem. It is always helpful to bring in a sample of the problem plant.
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8. Are you open all year?
   Yes, we are open year round. While spring is obviously our busiest time, we are here throughout the fall and winter too. During the fall we offer pumpkins, squash, and other fall decorations, and winter means holiday preparations. At Eaton Grove we have Christmas trees, wreaths, boughs, and poinsettias. Although Colorado’s growing season doesn’t last all year, it takes 12 months to prepare for the spring and summer and maintain the nursery. So, come see us or call anytime…we are here to help.
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9. I have an area that I need suggestions for—can you help?
   Yes, we can definitely help. It is always easiest if you can bring out a small sketch with dimensions or a picture of the area. Several members of our staff specialize in landscape design and would be happy to help with suggestions. For more in-depth help please check into our landscape services.
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10. What should I use for soil amendments when planting a tree/shrub?
    Good soil is critical in the health of your new plant. We recommend using either peat moss or gard n’ prep when planting. It should be mixed in the existing soil—2/3 soil to 1/3 soil amendment. Bone meal or super phosphate can be added at planting to serve as a root stimulator. We also carry liquid root stimulator which needs diluted and can be used the first several times you water. It is very important to take the time to amend the soil when planting.
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